Review of 'The Thanksgiving Table' by Diane Morgan

503-248-2015

In Good Taste
located in the Pearl District, Portland, Oregon.
http://www.ingoodtastestore.com

Review of

The Thanksgiving Table ($18.95) by Diane Morgan

photographs by John Rizzo

Through the years we have slipped into a wonderful celebrating ritual with our neighbors, the Overton’s. In the beginning, we would just alternate holidays and houses. We have gotten more sophisticated and now alternate courses during the day winding up in front of their plasma TV for dessert and a snooze. Dogs, wine, children, and food go up and down our flag pole driveway in celebration. The 2005 Thanksgiving will be a tour de force! Not only will there be the two families but visiting relatives and stray college kids to introduce to this unique style of holiday entertaining.

This Thanksgiving we will need many new dishes to serve the hordes, and I look forward to using Diane Morgan’s The Thanksgiving Table. Diane is passionate about Thanksgiving and her memories of Thanksgiving past fuel the cookbook with common sense and love. This book is not only about food but how to create your own unique Thanksgiving traditions. There are easy decorating ideas, time tables for guests from four to twenty, vegetarian menus, and thoughts on how to stay on top of the big day. Her recipes are in entertaining portions from 6-20 servings.

Before delving into the recipes, Diane has a section on “Special Equipment and Tools” that is valuable for the first time “Thanksgivian”. It is good to be reminded well in advance of general equipment to have on hand before it is needed. From roasting pans to turkey platters, Morgan has suggestions to make the cooking easy.

I’m excited about branching out! Morgan has two recipes that look perfect as starters. For the not so adventuresome we’ll serve her Spinach, Pear, and shaved Parmesan Salad. The gourmets of the bunch can start with Roasted Beet Salad with Walnuts and Goat Cheese. Molded salads are a tradition for many (remember the sunshine salad brought to us by Jell-O?). Morgan has updated this recipe using cranberry juice cocktail and unflavored gelatin. Her Cranberry Molded Salad with Pineapple, Celery, and Orange comes with shape suggestions for the mold as well as un-molding and garnishing ideas.

I agree with Morgan. Once you have brined a bird you will never go back. This year I will prep the turkey with her Apple Cider Brine before it travels to the satellite kitchen to be barbecued outside. Morgan suggests hickory chips and indirect grilling to cook the bird. This will give depth of flavor to ol’Tom.

I guess I have to be on the safe side and offer a vegetarian entrée. College kids can change quickly when they leave the nest. Morgan has an elegant Lasagna with Sugar Pumpkin, Ricotta, and fried Sage Leaves that I can’t wait to make. The pumpkin is sautéed and sprinkled with fried sage leaves. It is layered between lasagna sheets and covered with a creamy, herb-infused béchamel sauce, and topped with Parmesan cheese. This recipe could easily become a new winter comfort meal! Morgan suggests making this in advance and baking it on Thanksgiving.

When it comes to stuffing it is hard to break from tradition. I have been known to host Thanksgivings at my house only because I could make my own stuffing. This year however I will make two stuffings, my own (of course) and Morgan’s Wild Rice Stuffing with Pine Nuts, dried Apricots, and fresh Herbs. The color contrast of the apricots and carrots, the dark wild rice, and green herbs will add a textural and lighter dish to the table.

Another culinary “classic” that has graced many a Thanksgiving table is Green Bean Casserole. A magical dish made with frenched frozen green beans, cream of mushroom soup, and canned French-fried onions. Morgan has waved her culinary wand and updated this dish with Sautéed Green Beans with Shallot Crisps. There is something about crispy onions or shallots that turn the humblest of vegetables into a holiday treat. I will serve it along with Purée of Yukon Gold Potatoes and Maple-Glazed Apple and Sweet Potato Gratin.

My table is looking pretty full and I’ll turn the book over to Judy Z. for dessert. I have “suggested” however the Spiced Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Pastry Crust and for the chocolate lover Bittersweet Chocolate Parfait with a Cranberry-Cherry Coulis. Being a gingerbread fiend I will bring Chocolate Gingerbread with sugar-Glazed Apples.

Diane doesn’t leave us on Thanksgiving with a refrigerator of leftovers. In chapter seven she shares her leftover favorites to jump start the rest of the long holiday.

I look forward to using this book for other family events and I know I will always pull it out at Thanksgiving for inspiration and fabulous recipes!

Read! Eat! Enjoy!

Judith Bishop